Who wants to cook real food anymore?
It would seem as though once again we have hit a dearth of young talent in the catering industry. In recent months I have felt increasingly old as I watch young wannabee chefs come into my kitchens and demonstrate how not to conduct themselves in the workpace in spectacular fashion…..
If there is one word that I would ban from being used in job applications and interviews it would be ‘passionate’. That word has truly lost all sense of its original meaning and whenever I hear it being used in interviews I cannot help but think ‘here we go again’. I interviewed one nineteen year old recently, I explained about the company, its properties in Europe, the possibility of travel, paid college tuition, working with fresh food
etc and the first and only question he asked was if he had to pay for accomodation. No mention of the style of food, seasonality, ambition etc. Others don’t come into work because of hangovers, supposed bad stomachs (although they can manage an Indian takeaway on the same day) their aunt isn’t very well, or they cannot start work at three o’ clock that afternoon because they have to pay their rent. Where they have to travel for six hours to pay their rent I do not know but you get the idea.
Four young chefs have told me in the past two weeks that the industry isn’t what they expected it to be and that college hasn’t prepared them for it. One told me that he couldn’t understand why everyone wasn’t ‘having a laugh and enjoying themselves’. I then find myself having to explain the concept of working for a living and that generally speaking work isn’t ‘a laugh’. I then explain that in order to cook good quality fresh food it requires effort, they tell me they want to do this but in reality they want to open a packet and get it over with.
There are many kitchens where chefs are expected to work in excess of fifteen hours per day and often six days per week, not so in mine. I have long had a policy of actively encouraging young chefs to learn and search out new ideas by reading and going out to eat. My head chefs and sous chefs encourage the younger ones to write down what they have been shown and keep it as a record for their future benefit. Do they bother? No.
I have had one written application for a position from a chef under the age of twenty five in the last year. One. Employment agencies are now sending me teenage applicants who come straight to an agency because that’s the quickest and easiest way to get a job. When I was their age I wrote to possible employers, I didn’t consider my juvenile CV appropriate to send to a professional recruitment agency. Now I have to pay in excess of a thousand pounds to recruit a seventeen year old who lacks energy, motivation and enthusiam and who may well go back to the safe clutches of his family and mates within the month.
Last month I visited one of my kitchens and spoke to a new recruit to see how he was getting on. At that particular moment I, at forty one years of age had not had a day off for nearly a month and had just driven two hundred miles to visit this kitchen. He, at seventeen had just worked three days since his two days off and was, quote “feeling quite tired”
Here’s a picture of a pan of fresh beef stock which will be reduced to make a proper sauce. I use this as an example to young chefs of how to tell when a kitchen is serious about its food, the problem is that to make this stock it takes an extra fifteen or so minutes. Well worth it in my opinion but a chore for others.
The fact is that for every good, keen and ambitious young chef out there and they are still out there, there are a thousand who will waste my time, money and energy and slowly erode my enthusiasm for the work I love.
Fresh Beef Stock
Miles,
The reality of working life! I guess a lightening bolt out of the blue to a molly coddled generation. That makes for depressing reading as so much is in our world today. I suspect that yours is by no means the only profession that experiences these problems. It would be interesting to hear from people in other areas of work.
A neighbour told me recently that they had been delighted for their daughter to have secured a good job after University last year. She had now decided, however, that it was time for a year out travelling without any concerns for her future. They were shocked but decided that she would still have a home with them when all else failed!
It will all come crashing down eventually - it has already started.
Anne
July 9, 2009 @ 10:36 am
Miles,
A great post, sadly depressing but echoes everything I too see and hear about - it’s endemic in this country now
it’s a Brave New World alright !
I simply do not see who is going to carry the country in the years to come.
Every single penny the government takes in Income Tax is spent on benefits and the Welfare State - that’s an actual fact !
The work ethic is disappearing as so many expect everything for nothing - somebody somewhere has to actually get down to things - sadly nearly all those people are older !
Your dedication, hard work and enthusiasm is truly admirable but who will tak eyour place ?
How long before it’s finally beaten out of you.
All I can suggest is to do what I’ve done:
Set yourself up, get out of it and let them all get on with it !
It’s their problem now and if they don’t want to step up to the plate then let them deal with the consequences.
It’s negative I know but their are some tides you simply cannot swim against.
As ye sow, so shall ye reap
I’m minded of something in a favourite book of mine, set in the Dark Ages here in Britain after the Romans left and a period when this country went dramtically down hill.
Two warriors stood at a bridge spanning a river:
Look at that stone bridge the Romans built, it’s a work of art and will be there for centuries:
Let’s just get across it
Yes, but how would you build a bridge today ?
I’d sink logs into the river bed and then plank the top.
But would it still be there when your children want to cross this river ?
Let them build their own bridges !
Cheers
Rod
July 9, 2009 @ 11:09 am
It is sad but so true. The work ethic seems to be lacking in today’s youth. I am occasionally encouraged however because I do see it still from time to time in some young hardworking souls - albeit it seems ever more uncommon.
(Note: This is my first visit to your fascinating site and I found it because of an unrelated post that you wrote that I will email you about because I have some questions I think you might be able to answer.)
Marc
USA
July 9, 2009 @ 5:14 pm
Anne,
It is sad and the problem is that the age in which young people finally seem to get it is getting ever more older which is a big problem.
Miles
July 9, 2009 @ 5:19 pm
Rod,
Great comment, thanks. The knock on consequence is then trying to appease those caught in the middle, the ones in the mid twenties and upwards who are left to carry the proverbial can. They then complain that ‘when they were that age’ that attitude would never have been tolerated and they are right.
Miles
July 9, 2009 @ 5:21 pm
Marc,
Welcome to the site and thanks for your comment, you are quite right in that it is not a completley lost cause but the good ones are getting harder to find. I had an interview arranged for 9.30 in the morning but that proved too early for one individual who had been provided with free overnight accomodation in a hotel room.
Glad you like the site Marc and hope you return again soon.
kind regards
Miles
July 9, 2009 @ 5:25 pm
As a former teacher of teenagers, I can certainly relate to your observations. I think, though, as a parent, some of the blame must be laid at the doorstep of the parents of the young adults. Their own laziness, and lack of will to put in the hard work that is child-rearing is a the foundation of the ills that plague this generation. A recent conversation with my son and daughter-in-law was revealing. Said they: When we, as youngster and teenagers, had to do chores like laundry, cleaning, digging ditches for sprinkler systems around the yard, we were notably hostile, but now that we are in the workplace, and about to have our own home we are glad these requirements were put on us. Responsible adults are not “thrown up;” they are grown, nurtured, and given a sense work ethic by responsible parents. I have a pet theory that says our homes are the organizational structures that eventually shape workplaces. If a home structure is appropriately organized, and its “workers” taught sound life-skills, then the workplace reflects that in a positive way. If homes aren’t good organizations, the workers they turn out a duds.
Miles, it is obvious that your parents had the right attitude and philosophy when rearing you. Maybe your mum could be hired to run a “boot camp” for these wayward youths you are seeing. You are learning, as do most teachers, that you must re-parent your charges. Sad, but true.
Annie
July 9, 2009 @ 6:58 pm
Annie,
some of the blame must be laid at the doorstep of the parents of the young adults
I would say in most cases - all the blame !
I don’t blame the kids they only know what they see around them and what they’re taught by those around them.
I get sick of hearing the education system blamed for things like this. Teachers are here to educate children - not to raise them or instill discipline etc - that should happen at home
I saw a documentary about a teenager over here and it featured 3 generations of his family - not one had ever worked - it would be a remarkable kid indeed to break out of that.
They all need . . . A Damn Good Thrashing !
July 9, 2009 @ 7:31 pm
Oh Rod, the stories I could tell you about parents who thought that once kids went to school that all of their repsonsibilty for parenting ended, or of the parents who were drug addicted and couldn’t figure out why their kids were whacked out.
While I think we need to give people and hand-up if they are in trouble, I also think a bit of social Darwinism might not be in order. I know that is a bit harsh, but if we don’t teach people how to stand on their own two feet, they will always be seated.
July 9, 2009 @ 7:48 pm
Annie,
Careful, you could just set me off about Eugenics - best not on this site
July 9, 2009 @ 7:55 pm
Annie,
A wonderful comment and perspective thank you. Kids need support and encouragement and that is what I always offer, especially to those who have moved away from their home for the first time. But what I often find myself having to do is remind them of the fundamental principal of earning a living. You have to work for it.
We cannot carry on making concessions for younger people and getting worked up because we had to do it at their age, if this rot isn’t stopped businesses and ultimately the consumer are going to have a massive problem when future generations are relied upon to ‘carry the can’.
Everyone I talk to is saying the same regardless of the profession.
Miles
July 9, 2009 @ 9:49 pm
What a very sad situation and as the step parent of two teenage Girls I can say the blame starts ‘here’. Maybe our generation had it a little easier with our parents providing, my persona situation wasn’t so but my husband sent his two Daughters to Uni, despite the fact that neither knew what they wanted to do, both took the easy option and now one has just left and is no further on than she would have been if she had done a very similar course, day release whilst gaining valuable work experience.
To clarify the costs included £3,000 a year tuition fees, for attending lectures on just 3 days a week, £75.00 per week for student accommodation “they have the experience the lifestyle” and a living allowance “we mustn’t let having to work interfere with study”
What really appals me, and where I relinquish the blame, is the complete lack of preparation within the Education system, for life in the real world. When my step Daughter approached me to help her find a job, in an industry I know nothing about, my first suggestion was what does Uni say .. her response was that they were only interested in ’selling’ them another year and those that choose to leave after 3 years are left to wander aimlessly.
Maybe we have just been unlucky with our choice of Uni, certainly I feel my husband has been far too soft hearted and generous in his support of the girls but really is it any wonder they are so very unprepared when at almost 22 years of age this girl has not yet experienced one single standard working week!
Often I have to really stop myself from saying …” when I was your age” but actually .. when I was her age I had 2 jobs, yes in catering!
Oh.. and finally …. The stock pot … I was brought up in a restaurant, we lived above it and the smell of the stock pot was a constant in my life from the age of 5 to 15 … of course then we had egg shells floating on top … or was that consomme?
Fab blog, congrats
July 10, 2009 @ 2:09 am
Anon,
Welcome to the site and thank you for a great comment and your own perspective. I have more experience with the ‘college parenting’ than actual parenting and I have to say that in the 25 years I have been in this industry I have yet to meet anyone from higher education who has had an interest in the future of young people once they have flown the college nest. It is a fact that the only thing a college is interested in is getting a young person to sign up for a 2-3 year full time course. They then enter the industry totally green to the reality of hard work, living away from their parents and handling money they have never before had.
I went to work full time and attended college part time, finished with the same qualification but three years experience and the money to go with it. A no brainer in my opinion.
There are some dedicated chef lecturers out there don’t get me wrong but most will accept anyone onto their courses regardless.
My first job was washing pots in a kitchen, I now have young people with no qualifications, no drive or ambition who take a job doing the same thing and complain about it. What do they expect? £50,000 a year in IT??
Glad you like the blog and I hope you return again soon, good luck with the kids!
Miles
July 10, 2009 @ 8:28 am
Miles,
An article in the Times today states that Food manufacturers have boasted of increased sales in ready meals, despite the recession. Parents putting those in front of their youngsters are therefore “showing them the way” of how not to cook.
It appears that the BBC is preparing a new cookery series (without celebrity chefs) for the end of August called Economy Gastronomy. It is supposed to show you how to save thousands of your food bill and eat better. Hm - let’s hope and watch this space.
Anne
July 10, 2009 @ 3:03 pm
Rod, et al,
Yesterday was not a good day for me and comments in response to posts; my comment on social Darwinism was meant to be tongue-in-cheek, not an express of my true beliefs. Sorry about that; it was truly careless and insensitive on my part.
Hanging head in shame,
Annie
July 10, 2009 @ 7:10 pm
Anne,
A good comment that but with regard to the last part I really wouldn’t hold my breath, would you?
Sounds like another government funded disaster to me.
Miles
July 10, 2009 @ 10:27 pm
Late to the party as usual, but I’ll throw my two pence in. I have been very happy with the recent grads we have seen - and I want to remind you there is an excellent generation in their final years before college or just entering. The allure of the fast buck has disappeared and these kids are open and bright eyed about their own future. I think we might get whole generation of engineers in a few years - we could certainly use it. For many years on Wall Street I trained (and fired) all the new hires. We would take 20-25 right out of grad school - sack 24 to keep one. The one was usually a disappointment anyway. By far my best hires on Wall Street and in the kitchen have been former military. They always show up, they follow orders exactly, and they are never afraid to speak up when unclear or over their heads. Hard work, discipline, loyalty - all 5 are thriving in their perspective careers.
Parents absolutely deserve some blame - sorry, but I feel teachers could take their share as well. I think there might be a thing as too much self esteem - “Wow Timmy! You drew a blob when we asked for an elephant - but it’s still GREAT!” horseshit. I remember a teacher telling me how they “celebrated failure” - why? Learn from failure, grow from failure, get inspired by failure, but don’t “celebrate it”. We have tried (and I think succeeded) in instilling in our kids the joy of doing something the right way - from building a model, to making an omelet, to taking the time to learn how to stand on a surfboard. Failure, patience, effort, and struggle all lead to a much greater satisfaction in the end.
July 12, 2009 @ 6:05 am
Dave,
A great comment, thanks. I have to say matters sound a bit rosier in NYC than they do for me…I might move!! You’re absolutely right about the failure bit, why wrap them up in cotton wool at every turn? The fact is that work and life can be crappy and they need to be ready to face that, I’ve had my fair share of knock backs in my time but I was brought up to get on with it. Maybe that’s why I have a problem with all of this, who knows?
Miles
July 12, 2009 @ 8:30 am
Annie,
Hanging head in shame
don’t do that - I’m all in favour of it myself - radical perhaps but radical is what’s needed
Both of our governments actually experimented with Eugenics in the 1930s !
Best
Rod
July 12, 2009 @ 12:27 pm