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Pork Cheeks and Bath Chaps
Making the most of the noble pig….
I’ve been thinking about different cuts of pork recently and the best methods of cooking them. I tend to do this whilst I am travelling, I rarely come up with a new dish when I have to think about one and this month shall see me concentrate on lesser used cuts of meat and more especially pork cuts. I actually got onto the pork cuts via thinking about a new scallop dish. Fatty pork and juicy scallops are fantastic together but I also love textures so I started thinking about how I could take something which would be cooked for a long time and give it an alternative texture to the soft and moist scallops. A working on breadcrumbs looks to be the answer, something I can ‘crisp up’ at the last moment. But that’s still very much on the drawing board.
Pigs cheeks are finding favour amongst restaurant chefs once again, fillet is so ‘last season’ and belly has been done to death so it’s a warm welcome return for the pig’s head to the table. Pigs cheeks are also known as chaps in these parts, they are prepared in various ways; some soak them in water, others leave them in brine for a day or three but everyone slow cooks them. Bath Chaps are a product of England’s West Country. They require a skilled knife hand to produce them as the head has to be ‘boned out’ and then rolled and tied. This way you end up with the tongue in the centre of a roll of pig’s cheeks and protected by the natural fat.
Bath Chaps are left to sit in a brine before being gently poached for a couple of hours in an obliging stock of vegetables and herbs. You can serve them hot with vegetables or leave it to cool and slice it thinly as you would for ox tongue. I particularly like the latter, serve it with something piquant such as gherkins, capers or a classic tartare sauce and some peppery rocket leaves or watercress and a chunk of crusty bread.
I’ll post a pigs cheek recipe and an ox tongue dish in the next week or so, if only to pacify my brother who keeps asking me for one 
Pork cheeks, hmmm. Beef cheeks are a staple, but I cant say I have tried pork. I have long bought the heads of giant tuna just for the cheeks - I paid $20 for the head of a 575lb Big Eye tuna in Feb - I had the kids with me - they were appalled - but those cheeks were worth $200 easy. Man flu has struck NYC - I am a really bad sick person (bitching and moaning constantly). On the plus side - I am such a miserable prick to be around (when sick - well, mostly when sick) that I am ordered to stay home. It’s 10:30 here, time to try “THE CURE” *8oz Nyquil + 8oz Bourbon = 10 hours uninterrupted slumber (old family recipe).
Please post your pork cheek recipe - I have an idea for a buttermilk soak - 24+ hours - that I am toying with as I lie in my pathetic state. If I was a horse they would shoot me. Deservedly.
April 7, 2009 @ 3:34 am
Brain is overflowing - treat these like short ribs - when done 1/8 inch slice alternating with sliced pan seared scallop - roasted root veg - and a dark sauce sporting some good acidity - of course I can’t even distinguish salty and sweet right now but you’ve set my brain running. Thank you.
April 7, 2009 @ 3:41 am
Miles,
Boning out pigs heads is one of those very difficult jobs that you chefs make look so easy. Chris Cosentino posted a couple of vids on his blog a while ago and I was totally lost despite him taking it slowly and running a commentary.
He then went on to hacksaw the skull open to get at the brain. Rod’s next Sunday lunch, perhaps?
GDave
PS. Get well soon, Dave. I can’t see the bourbon failing.
April 7, 2009 @ 5:05 am
Chef
:
double portion table 5 - hold everything
I have to say I’m not convinced by all these, as I call them, ‘Peasant Cuts’ . If we’re being honest how many people are eating them just to say ‘guess what we had’
I think I’ll go with Dave’s medicinal recipe rathe than GreedyDave’s suggestion for Sunday lunch
Crispy pigs ears anyone ?
Rod
PS: what exactly are pork scratchings
April 7, 2009 @ 8:55 am
Miles,
I could be wrong here but don’t we eat these unusual cuts because they taste great and are often more tender than the supermarket pre packed stuff? Sounds like highly skilled work boning out a pig’s head but if you cook it, I would be more than willing to try it… so too would Rod if the dish looks pretty I imagine. Tell him it’s a pork flavoured gougere
Cid
April 7, 2009 @ 1:26 pm
Cid,
I hope we’re gonna get the opportunity to see pics of your Easter tree and Simnel cake.
GDave
April 7, 2009 @ 7:36 pm
Dave,
Man flu? What a nightmare, women have no idea as to the severity of it. I just hope it doesn’t manage to mutate itself and get across the Atlantic
Hope you feel better soon, I’ve got hayfever if that makes you feel any better?
Miles
April 7, 2009 @ 9:57 pm
Dave,
Scallops and offal are great together, that sounds lovely. I’ll let you know how I get on with them tomorrow.
Miles
April 7, 2009 @ 9:58 pm
GDave,
Sounds like a fun video!! All joking aside we should do what we can to preserve these methods of butchery and the wonderful cuts to be gleaned from it. If we’re not careful it will become a lost art.
Miles
April 7, 2009 @ 10:00 pm
Rod,
Crispy pigs ears with remoulade, can’t beat it. I’ll fry you some up one day as a treat
Miles
April 7, 2009 @ 10:02 pm
Cid,
No you’re not wrong, we all eat it but 95% of the time we don’t know that we are. The fact is that there is a ton of flavour in these cuts and that imparts into the cooking stock in a way a boring piece of fillet never will.
Miles
April 7, 2009 @ 10:04 pm
GDave,
I’ve had a go at capturing the scene and with some help will send a photo to Miles. He’s probably busy right now setting up his own Easter tree, gathering together bunnies, chicks and tropical birds…. if his is better than mine I’ll cry
Alas the Simnel cake cannot be made just yet but by Easter Sunday it will appear complete with eleven almond paste apostles, toasted by my cook’s arc welding gear
Cid
April 8, 2009 @ 3:11 pm