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Marco Pierre White in Hells Kitchen

In 1990 I bought a book, which would change my thoughts on food and professional cooking forever.

White Heat by Marco Pierre White was a revelation, a chef with rock star looks, demonic temper and incredible technique that came together to propel chefs into the limelight. Marco was unique and menus across the globe owe him for his inspiration, his style is unmistakable and his dishes from the late eighties still stand the test of time.

Gordon owes him, so does Heston, Novelli, Shannon Bennet, Stephen Terry et al-the youngest chef ever to get two Michelin stars and the first British chef to achieve the maximum three which he then handed back, he was blood and guts and spoke the truth about working in a professional kitchen and although his food was on another planet to everyone else we all related to him, all wanted to be him.
Much is made of his ability to make a young Gordon Ramsay cry but for me his legacy should be the tagliatelle of oysters with caviar, a sublime dish of pure elegance or his confidence in serving a slice of lemon tart in a three Michelin starred restaurant with nothing else, no cream or intricate sugar garnish, just absolute self belief in the quality of his work.

Now he his to follow Ramsay in Hell’s Kitchen for which he was offered the part before Ramsay but turned down twice. I had my reservations about this but after seeing him in two television series in the early nineties I think his charisma and on screen presence should make for good viewing. Whatever he is now for chefs of my generation he is still the Guvnor.

8 Comments

  1. Derfel Cadarn says:

    Miles,
    Do you not think there is a real danger his kudos could be damaged?

    He’s avoided the celebrity chef route up until now so I wonder why bother at this point !
    DC

    August 10, 2007 @ 11:35 am

  2. Miles says:

    Hi Derfel,
    I think he lost a bit of credibility in the chef world when he began launching cheaper, family friendly restaurants. Nothing wrong with that but I think people associate Marco with haute cuisine rather than burgers and pasta. I would like to see him leave the sniping at Ramsay alone, he doesn’t need to do it.
    Thanks for taking the time to comment. Much appreciated
    Miles

    August 10, 2007 @ 8:36 pm

  3. Rod Collins says:

    Thought of you today in TK Maxx when I nearly bought a
    Marco Pierre White frying pan from his
    White Heat Range :(

    August 15, 2007 @ 1:26 pm

  4. miles says:

    Rod,
    I’ve seen his range-looks alright but expensive. I was suprised to see him doing this sort of thing to be honest. Many credit him with the idea of using a blow torch for caramelising brulee’s etc but the truth is that when he opened his first restaurant he couldn’t afford a grill so picked up a blow torch instead!

    August 15, 2007 @ 3:29 pm

  5. Cid says:

    Dear Rod,

    Lakeland Plastics make their own range of pans, reasonably priced and dishwasher friendly. I always carry one with me to deter any unwanted attention, so doubly useful!

    Cid

    August 15, 2007 @ 3:39 pm

  6. Rod says:

    Miles
    I’ve seen his range-looks alright but expensive
    Not in TK Maxx, the one I looked at was rrp £60 - going for £14.99 !
    Obviously nobody is buying them and TK get to clear them !

    August 15, 2007 @ 5:39 pm

  7. Restaurant food of the 1990’s | Miles Collins says:

    […] In the 1990’s every chef in England wanted to be Marco Pierre White . He had brought what he had started in the late eighties to the fore with the exceptional three michelin starred The Restaurant Marco Pierre White at the Hyde Park Hotel in London. His food, style and personality struck a chord with chefs and his influence would spread across the world. […]

    January 14, 2008 @ 8:52 am

  8. A Week in the Catering Industry | Miles Collins says:

    […] 4. Marco on the move… Marco Pierre White  and business partner Frankie Dettori are taking their Italian restaurant chain to the Channel Islands. […]

    April 26, 2008 @ 7:13 am

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