Miles Collins

Before the season ends…

Mackerel is coming to the end of its season which is a shame because it is one of the most versatile of all produce in any kitchen. Because it is relatively cheap it seldom gets the recognition it deserves, personally, I think it is a beautiful fish and it features heavily on my menus.

The important point to note here is that I am talking about fresh mackerel, not the dry, brown smoked thing you buy in a vac pack. A mackerel which has been ‘properly’ smoked in a traditional smokehouse will be far superior to anything you can buy in a supermarket so look around before buying.

Mackerel needs bold flavours which is why you will see recipes which include vinegar, gooseberries, Indian masalas, wine, ginger etc, etc. They are brilliant for curing in a vinegar solution flavoured with peppercorns, bay, lemon and juniper and served with a warm potato salad.

They are easily filleted for pan-frying. Take the fillets and run a sharp knife across the skin removing all of the excess moisture and random gunge. Pat dry with a kitchen towel and you will have a bone dry skin which is perfect for frying skin side down until wonderfully crisp. Because it’s dry it shouldn’t stick to your pan either. You should adopt this practice for all skin on fillets you wish to pan fry.

When cooking them this way always use a hot pan with only a drop of oil, they should be three quater cooked on the skin side first and then turned over just to finish the flesh side for a minute, no more. Beetroot is surprisingly good with hot or cold mackerel, I like to pair them with a fresh Russian vegetable salad flavoured with creme fraiche and plenty of dill, some crispy fried onions wouldn’t go amiss either.