Ham and Asparagus
Childhood Memories Updated…
One of my most treasured childhood memories is eating with my German grandfather at his house near the River Mosel. He always had a fine table of food for us and I am sure he liked the fact that we were brought up to enjoy and respect food. We ate very well on our holidays, breakfast was always good; plates of wonderful cold meats with the ripest tomatoes and fabulous crusty bread rolls. God, I miss that.
Ham in Germany is like nothing else, smoked with some white asparagus at the height of season and all you need is a spoon of remoulade to send you to seventh heaven. I loved that. I was thinking about those days and how our own asparagus season has started, slightly early but I’m not complaining. When I worked in Germany we would serve an entire menu based on fresh asparagus, I wouldn’t go that far but it has to feature somewhere.
So I put the asparagus and ham together, just like my Grandfather did, I took another of his favourites, the hock and used that instead of a smoked joint. I cooked the hock just the way he would have wanted it done, in a broth of vegetables to make a fine soup with. Next up was the tried and trusted monkfish, we’ve been here before I know so I’ll not bang on about it. I made a sauce from some brown chicken stock and the juice of a few clams along with a few tiny haricot beans. This was reduced and thickened with a little herb butter to bring everything together. It’s gone down well with the guests which is great but not as good a feeling as knowing my grandfather’s spirit has stayed with me and inspired me throughout my life.
For my Opa, auf immer und ewig…..
Chef,
do you know what I had a few weeks ago.
Asparagus wrapped in ham with Hollandiase sauce - not quite the dish that yours is but very tasty.
That looks quite superb
Triple portion Table 5
Rod
April 25, 2009 @ 8:38 am
Miles,
Any spare portions? I would love to try that.
As you say, the white asparagus is a firm favourite in Germany. It has come down in price significantly since they import it also from Greece. I also miss the wonderful soup that is made from it and sadly one that I have never made.
Great, to have good memories
Anne
April 25, 2009 @ 9:19 am
Miles,
What are you trying to do to me… you and Melissa…. I’m off to work and all I can think about is Opa and the global performers of Stand by Me. Must be the eucalyptus oil on my handkerchief making my eyes water…
A lovely post Miles, talking with such feeling about your heritage.
Cid
April 25, 2009 @ 9:33 am
This is wonderful, Miles. There is nothing better than “nourishing traditions” such as you write about here. Beautifully put. What we learn about food (growing it, preparing it, sharing it) while growing up and how it plays into who we become is a subject for a whole book. With your writing skills and Anne’s reminiscing help, I suggest you do that in your 5 minutes of spare time each day. It sounds as though the Collins clan has a rich culinary history. I’ll pre-order several copies!
Melissa
P.S. I read your last post and thought about it off and on, but decided it was too overwhelming to comment on. That subject is one I’m very passionate about for a variety of reasons. Just wanted you to know I appreciated your thoughtful commentary on the subject.
April 25, 2009 @ 11:15 am
Melissa,
I wish the Collins Clan was rich in cash.
I’d much sooner have a load of $$$s as an inheritance rather than an old recipe book
Eject the diner at Table 5 for being opprobrious !
Cheers
Rod (at this very moment roasting turkey and vegetables )
April 25, 2009 @ 5:45 pm
Rod (aka Table #5) — Yes, it does sound as though the Collins clan is steeped in gastronomical tradition. Who knows, maybe that old recipe book you refer to IS your path to riches.
Opprobrious? Good word. I had to look it up, but it will be one I save in my memory banks for later use. No doubt, a perfect occasion will arise in which I can use it and dazzle people with my mental lexicon.
:-)
Melissa (at this very moment making British Racing Green Soup)
April 25, 2009 @ 6:26 pm
Melissa
I know lots of words nobody ever uses - sadly, at the cost of anything useful
Grandiloquently Yours
Rod
April 25, 2009 @ 8:11 pm
Rod,
Can’t beat that mate, perfect marriage.
Miles
April 25, 2009 @ 10:21 pm
Mum,
No there isn’t-cook your own
I’m trying to remember who I had a conversation with recently about white asparagus and how we don’t eat it in the UK.
Shame really.
Miles
April 25, 2009 @ 10:23 pm
Cid,
Thanks, he meant a lot to me.
Miles
April 25, 2009 @ 10:24 pm
Melissa,
Thank you, loved your last post by the way, I was about to comment on it but evening service got in the way
A great post and idea.
Miles
April 25, 2009 @ 10:26 pm