Elizabeth David-The Queen of Cookery Writing
Forget Nigella, our Liz was the true domestic goddess…
More often than not I think of Elizabeth David as my favourite food writer. There is nothing ‘cheffy’ about David’s writing, the recipes are not particularly exceptional, there are no glossy photos or self glorification which is probably why I like it.
Her first book, Mediterranean Food was published in 1950, imagine if you will, a book describing the sights, smells and tastes of sunshine food to a post war British public. Food was either rationed or simply unobtainable yet she still wrote of octopus, veal and bouillabaise quoting French works on gastronomy (in French) and regaling the reader with stories of etiquette, Greek peasant food and so on.
When I read her books I cannot help but have a rose tinted view of a Britain and Europe (she lived in France, Italy, Egypt and the Greek Islands) that was seemingly much less complicated than the world we live in today. Unlike the majority, Elizabeth David lived well. She enjoyed long lunches and champagne receptions but loved to cook nonetheless and I cannot help but wonder how interesting her dinner parties must have been.
I would recommend any of her books to food lovers, it made sense then and it still stands up today. In a world of fast food and tv dinners I draw comfort from her writings, it serves as a reminder that what I really strive for is not to be a great chef but a natural cook. To cook effortlessly with understanding and passion. As Marco Pierre White said many years ago, ‘Being a cook, that’s style’.
I am very fortunate to own a first edition of her second book; French Country Cooking published in 1951, a paperback copy has been used widely in my kitchens and continues to be an inspiration today.
Elizabeth David died on May 22nd 1992, my 24th birthday. I always raise a glass in her general direction.
Miles,
‘Being a cook, that’s style’ … how true and it’s certainly a fashionable subject judging by the tv programmes and glossy magazines (don’t forget to save me the Aussie Gourmet!).
Today I made parmesan and herb biscuits for a motley crew … he who shall not be named but wears women’s jeans
sampled several. No doubt it made up for the fact that I droned on about what a fabulous site this is. Hopefully others will see the light as word spreads. In the meantime I shall make a point of researching Elizabeth David.
Cid
September 4, 2007 @ 9:28 pm
Cid,
Once again I must thank you for your kind words, the parmesan biscuits sound wonderful. We make wafer thin parmesan ‘tuilles’ for garnishes and canapes. The addition of some finely chopped olives or sun dried tomatoes doesn’t hurt either.
If you have never read E.D. before then might I suggest ‘An Omelette and a Glass of Wine’ to begin with? A compilation of short writings which I am sure would wet your appetite for the classics.
Happy reading.
miles
September 4, 2007 @ 10:40 pm