Does Anyone Make Consomme Anymore?
How to make a consomme
When was the last time you saw a consomme on a restaurant menu? The one time king (or Queen) of all things soup has seen its popularity take a drastic nosedive in recent years and I wonder what the real reason behind that is. I used to make consomme all of the time as a young commis chef and I cannot remember making it since my fomative years cooking in Germany.
The other question is why haven’t I ever put it on one of my own menus? Answer: Don’t know! Sounds like a cop out but the idea of one has rarely entered my head. I must say that since I have thought about it I have had the odd nostalgic pang for the old days when making them was a lesson in trial and error and usually more error than trial!
The one aspect of making a consomme that chefs long suffered with was the clarifying of the stock. Consommes lived and died on the quality of the original stock, you had to get it right from the start or you faced an uphill battle. Beef consomme was the one I made the most followed by game. Lots of vegetables, herbs and other flavourings went into a pot along with the relevant bones. The stock was left to simmer whilst the chef got on with the clarifying process.
A consomme is a clear broth, it has to be clear to allow the customer to see the various garnishes which had been invented by the great French chefs of yesteryear. What you looked for was achieving a clear soup which looked like it would do you some good, it had a golden hue as you laddled it into the soup turrine and you thanked God that it had clarified. Once you had cooked the stock it was passed into another soup pan ready for the final stage.
The meat from which the bones had been used were minced along with egg whites and a mirepoix of vegetables; carrots, onions, celery and leeks. This was then added to the stock and brought to a very gentle simmer. Now here was the key, if it boiled then the clarification process would be lost. The broth would slowly seperate and clarify from the meat and vegetable mixture under the watching eye of a worried trainee.
For all of those chefs of a similar generation to me then how many times have you had to leave a consomme to simmer on a split shift and hope and pray that the kitchen porter on duty that afternoon wouldn’t maliciously shake the pan or turn the heat up? Been there, done that, returned later to get a ladle of soup from half a gallon of stock etc etc….
Maybe I’ve just answered my own question!
Miles,
I’ve never tried to make consomme but I make stock all the time. In fact yesterday I quickly made a risotto from some chicken stock which I’d reduced slightly to concentrate the flavour. Very simple, about 20 minutes to make and very tasty too. Like we’ve said before, it’s all about using left overs to make an extra meal.
Come to think of it I can’t remember when I last saw someone else making a pan of stock either which is odd really since it’s just a pan of bones and a few root veg, perhaps herbs all simmering for a couple of hours. Truth is who has a joint of beef on the bone these days? If I do buy a joint then I feel cheated if I can’t make a decent size pan of stock for soup the next day. Wonder if butchers make much of a charge for beef bones…. I must ask locally and report back.
Cid
October 30, 2008 @ 8:49 pm
Cid,
Most butchers by their meats ready cut from a central abbatoir/factory plant. Getting a regular supply of bones can be difficult. You could stick with a nice broth made from your leftover chicken bones-just as tasty.
Miles
October 31, 2008 @ 8:06 am
The other question is why haven’t I ever put it on one of my own menus?
Because it’s pretty dull ?
Rod
October 31, 2008 @ 11:37 am
Rod,
You’re probably thinking about the tinned variety
Cid
October 31, 2008 @ 12:47 pm
Miles,
I understand that it still features on menues on the Continent. They may add strips of egg/pancake, marrowbone balls, pasta etc.
Personally, I prefer a soup with more consistancy, still made with good stock if possible.
Elsie
October 31, 2008 @ 1:37 pm
Cid
I’ve had it before when eating out and it’s always been a little dull, there are better things !
One part of the problem I would guess is that it is one of those dishes that only comes to life when done to a very high standard.
Some dishes, whilst always better done superbly, are still OK when done to a lesser degree or when short cuts are used.
Just a thought
Best
Rod
October 31, 2008 @ 1:58 pm
Rod,
I’ve had some very good clear broths in Japanese restaurants before…. who knows what goes into them but most likely seaweed. As Elsie suggested, there is nearly always something floating on top like noodles etc.
I like every kind of soup but something tells me that Miles’ version of consomme is probably fabulous and very healthy….. I could just do with one now.
Alas tonight it’s scrambled egg surprise for me
Cid
October 31, 2008 @ 6:02 pm
Blimey, didn’t think this would stir a comment or two. Rod, I just wish you’d get to the point sometimes
Miles
October 31, 2008 @ 7:54 pm
Good day to one and all. I happened across your comments whilst looking up some info on haddock, of all things
Here in sunny Port Elizabeth (located on the south eastern coast of South Africa) very very few restaurants serve consomme. The one which does, however, serves mostly Austrian dishes (appropriately, it’s called Old Austria). They serve an astoundingly delicious pancake consomme which left me in gastronomical heaven.
November 1, 2008 @ 8:39 am
Xenny,
Welcome to the site and thankyou for your comment, I am delighted to add South Africa to this blog’s map of visitors. The consomme you mention is typical of Austria and Germany and is called, if I remember correctly-I’ll spell it as it is pronounced as I don’t have the German accents on my PC as ‘flaydlee suppe’. I used to make it every day when I worked over there and it is lovely.
I envy your location, I have visited South Africa and loved it, the food was excellent.
Hope you return again
Kind regards
Miles
November 1, 2008 @ 1:52 pm
Thanks for the welcome, Miles
If memory serves, some of the consommes which they offer include Leberknodel, which are liver dumplings in a beef consomme. My wife ordered some, and I must say it was outstanding.
As regards this neck of the woods, you’re spot on, mate, it’s truly a blessing living here, especially with the ocean (and all that delicious seafood!) a stone’s throw away.
Once again, thanks for the welcome. I’ll certainly be a regular visitor to this blog
Xenny
November 1, 2008 @ 3:02 pm
Xenny,
Glad to hear you’ll be back, I look forward to your perspective on matters. I drove the wine route and garden route a few years ago and I must say it was spectacular.
Miles (in cold and wet England)
November 1, 2008 @ 3:38 pm