Devilled Kidneys on Toast
Reviving an old classic….
I’ve decided to put kidneys on the menu, I’ve barely cooked them since my time under Chef Barker who taught me how to cook them and it’s a shame I’ve left it so long.
First of all I must confess they wouldn’t be very high on my ‘last dinner before I die’ list, like liver, I enjoy the sauce it creates but not the meat itself which I regret. Offal does make a fabulous sauce/gravy,often without comparison and I wanted to highlight this with a simple dish which allows the kidneys to shine through.
Kidneys will only be eaten by a select few and that select few know a good offal dish from a bad one, you can’t fool them and they don’t want their offal messed about with. This dish is designed for the offal lover and nobody else.
I’m not going to give an exact recipe, offal aficionado’s aren’t bothered with measurements, they want it all cooked in one pan, strong flavours cooked simply, job done….
Recipe for Devilled Kidneys
If your kidneys are encased in their natural suet (unlikely but you never know) remove and slice in half lengthways to retain their natural shape. Remove the inner white membrane with a sharp knife. Soak overnight in milk infused with thyme,bay,garlic,shallots,peppercorns and a couple of juniper berries.
Have some hot chicken or beef stock to hand, heat a frying pan, add a little oil and fry some pancetta (Italian bacon) until crisp. Add some sliced shallots and sliced mushrooms. Pat the kidneys dry, season and add to the pan. Brown the kidneys on all sides, give them a liberal dose of paprika, deglaze the pan with a splash of madeira or brandy. Add a ladle of stock and allow all of the flavours to incorporate. Bring the sauce and meat together with some pieces of cold butter, this will thicken the sauce and flavour it at the same time.
Take a slice of brioche and toast it, I cover it with a truffle butter but you can omit the truffle, it’s not essential. Spoon the kidneys over the bread and top with some fried fresh sage leaves.
Et Voila….!
Miles,
I’m an offal lover you know…. and this looks scrumptious to me!
Cid
July 29, 2008 @ 10:46 am
Cid,
Didn’t have you down as an offal type of bird, have a go at this one-it’s pretty straightforward, some of your homemade chicken stock would go down a treat in this recipe.
Miles
July 29, 2008 @ 3:25 pm
Miles,
I have mad moments when nothing but chicken liver pate will do or liver and onions in gravy…. and then there are my kidney moments which would definitely include your wonderful recipe above. My Mother and Grandmother were expert offal cooks whereas now hardly any of my friends or family eat it. Great shame because it’s full of flavour and tremendously good for you.
As to being ‘an offal type of bird’ …. that’s me, positively
fowlfoulCid
July 29, 2008 @ 6:31 pm
Cid,
That’s interesting what you say about your Mother and Grandmother, I do believe the future of offal eating lies in the type of parenting today’s children will receive. I wonder how many parents still rustle up a bowl of kidneys/liver/tripe? Not many I suspect.
Miles
July 29, 2008 @ 8:48 pm