Asian Food on Western Menus
Is there a a place for it on ‘fine dining’ menus?
I have recently regained my former rebellious streak when it comes to writing menus. Four years ago I won an award for the quality of food in one of our restaurants and despite being happy for my staff and the hotel I personally saw it as a mixed blessing. What I feared at the time and to a certain extent proved to happen was that I began writing menus with more than an eye on the guidelines set by the restaurant inspectors for fear of losing the award. The guides set certain criterias depending on the award given, if you don’t have an award you can get away with anything, more tahn one and it’s more constrictive and I don’t like that.
I suppose my first love is Asian food, the food, region and culture has fascinated me for over thirty years and when I took my first head chef position over thirteen years ago I was determined to get some Asian dishes on there. It wasn’t easy in the begining, the hotel owners were somewhat sceptical about food the customer might not understand and, it has to be said I wasn’t particularly good at it.
As my career progressed I travelled to Asia every year and studied the food in far greater depth which in turn led to a better understanding of dish construction, balance and, I hope a more authentic finished dish. The dishes began to sell better and I suppose I began to get a bit of a reputation for cooking authentic Asian food. I went to great lengths to source ingredients and subsequently my menus became more interesting and varied. That pretty much stopped when the awards started coming in, ‘be one thing or another but don’t mix’ I was advised. I disagreed at the time and I still do, we have a number of regular long stay guests who appreciate a change from French gastronomy as much as my chefs appreciate a change from cooking it.
Perhaps most importantly and the acid test is in the selling. Without doubt our best selling dish other than beef fillet is ANY Asian dish and particularly fish curries. I’ve put another one on the menu and we can’t stop selling it. The feedback has been very positive and I’m back to feeling comfortable in my ‘gastronomic skin’ so to speak.
So my advice to any chefs out there wondering wether or not to risk it I’d say a resounding ‘yes’….
Fish Curry
Miles
Is there a a place for it on ‘fine dining’ menus?
My opinion, for what it’s worth, is yes. I would take the phrase literally and if I was at a fine dining restaurant I would expect a ‘fine dinner’
Something that was above and beyond the average, something I could not cook myself etc
To that effect, you could argue that superb Asian food has more of a place on a fine dining menu than an old cliched fillet steak ! ! !
Outside personal and professional kudos I don’t think the awards are worth a great deal to be really honest.
The average person only knows of 3 Michelin stars and nothing else - I suspect reputation and word of mouth puts fills more tables
Cheers
Rod
August 24, 2009 @ 8:38 am
Ask yourself this: In our once more globalized world, why should France remain at the center of the culinary globe?
I makes no sense, and seems rather lazy that so many better restaurants (not just “fine” ones) continue to preach the French cuisine gospel when it isn’t even the most happening cuisine in Europe anymore - that award, is arguably perhaps, now held by Spain.
Asian cuisines can and should stand on the same footing as French food - especially when prepared as you do, intelligently and delicately. And as you say, the proof is in the sales.
And as to critics urging you to keep your restaurants specializing in “one thing”, I have to say, how bloody boring is that? Never, grow, never change, never challenge your customers to eat outside the narrow box of French food. . . Pathetic, and unfortunately, all too common.
There is a massive revolution in food consumption and preparation that is taking place in the world because of the 20th C changes in immigration, globalized trade and massive increases in disposable income all over the planet. To keep on eating what was fresh and new in the 1950s and 1960s is like going to a concerthall and never having anything other than music that was popular when Napoleon was sweeping across Europe played - it is more than static, its stagnant!
So, you go, Miles! Mix it up a bit, make ‘em wonder, make ‘em question and ultimately, make ‘em follow. . . Its lonely out in front, but you’re up to it!
August 24, 2009 @ 12:54 pm
Miles,
If Asian dishes are selling and continue to sell then there’s your answer…. it’s customers that keep businesses open.
It would be interesting to know whether the prices vary in the restaurants under your banner… people in our beloved Shire are not known for parting with money easily so do you have to take this into consideration?
Cid
August 24, 2009 @ 3:30 pm
Miles,
I can imagine it’s quite difficult to create Asian dishes that fit in with a predominantly Western European menu, especially when you think about incorporating it into a three-course meal. But it sounds like you’ve got it licked with all of the takers you get.
I’m with the rest. If I saw this photograph on your menu I’d be first in the queue.
GDave
August 24, 2009 @ 7:26 pm
Rod,
It’s only being outsold by the fillet steak!!!!!
Miles
August 24, 2009 @ 9:06 pm
Laura,
A great comment and very true. I have been to visit one of our other hotels in the North of the country recently and my head chef said that he put beef rendang on as a special and it outsold everything.
Just goes to show that inspectors don’t always know best.
Miles
August 24, 2009 @ 9:09 pm
Cid,
Quite right about the pricing, the Cumbrians aren’t much different either
To be honest they tend to go for it regardless but I am aware of a certain ‘ceiling’ with some dishes such as these.
Miles
August 24, 2009 @ 9:10 pm
GDave,
I now use Asian starters and desserts so I’ve got that one licked!!!!
Miles
August 24, 2009 @ 9:12 pm
desserts so I’ve got that one licked
That’ll be ice cream then
August 25, 2009 @ 8:12 am