A Little Black Number
This summers must have accessory….
Black summer truffles, they’re all the rage, every domestic goddess and new man should have one. They’re not the best, black truffles from Perigourd rule the roost, when it comes to risotto the Perigourd are the Dolce to the risottos Gabana, the summer truffle is more off the peg Next-cheaper and more readily avaliable. Like a Next t-shirt they’ll cost you twenty quid or so, do the job you want but will never make a real impression.
That said I use them in abundance! They are perfectly fine for finishing dishes, their delicate taste adds a terroir like perfume to pasta, rissoto, fish and sauces when added freshly shaved at the last moment but do not penetrate foods such as raw risotto rice and eggs in the way the finest Perigourd beautys do.
Summer truffles weigh anywhere from 30 to 100 grams and once picked lose around 5% of their mass every day. I pay anywhere between nine and twenty quid for one depending on the time of season and quality of weather. The French have given up (though not totally) on the noble pig as its choice of fungul sniffer preferring instead the keaner senses of the domestic dog.
Paying for truffles is no joke, the chef has to develop razor sharp shaving skills to make the most of these black nuggets, if I find myself with a glut I shave the remaining truffle and then cover it with olive or truffle oil to preserve them.
If you cannot find or justify the expense of a fresh truffle then don’t try and substitute it with a cheap truffle oil, they are so nasty it doesn’t bear thinking about. Cancel your lottery ticket and have a sniff around an old oak or in and around a pine wood, your chances are pretty much the same!
Miles
Looking at your photo first I thought in my ignorance that you were showing the humble blackberry which had just been hailed as one of the super foods. Unfortunately the exclusive truffle does not appear on the bargain counters of our local shops.
Do you think that they are really appreciated by your guests or is it often a case of being able to say that one has eaten them?
Perhaps we should try and persuade SC to buy a cottage in the Perigourd area?
August 22, 2007 @ 10:24 am
“Persuade SC to buy a cottage in the Perigourd area ( Dordogne - South West France ).
Elsie,
I shall look into it, will it be expensive ?.
Also with the area being so heavily wooded do I not run the risk of getting lost on my way home after a bottle or two of Bergerac.
August 22, 2007 @ 12:10 pm
SC
How about us all chipping in to create a sort of group dwelling? Miles could bring his polytunnel, we exchange our cookers for a lovely arga, cid can loosen her corset or even do away with them. Miles can open a cooking school and teach us all, Christine seems eager to learn too (we might accept the odd lodgers) and he will have no longer staffing problems. We will keep geese, ducks, chickens etc. The Dordogne is awash with walnuts due soon for collecting. After a hard day enjoying ourselves, Rod and Miles can regale us with guitarr music - salute!
August 22, 2007 @ 1:22 pm
SC,
If I’m to be the baker and you the butcher Rod could be the candlestick maker!
Miles
August 22, 2007 @ 1:37 pm
Miles,
Now that would be a Recipe !.
August 22, 2007 @ 2:54 pm
Elsie,
No need for those guitars, what we would need to compliment such a lifestyle is a camp fire and a violin, it would add even more class to the rustic dishes M would be creating after a day’s truffle hunting.
August 22, 2007 @ 2:59 pm
SC
Since 199,000 have already left the UK, let us not hesitate. I can already hear the music and taste the wine . . .enchanter
August 22, 2007 @ 7:55 pm
SC,
Just bought a lead, I’ll sniff, you dig!!
Miles
August 22, 2007 @ 10:26 pm
Miles,
On a serious note it looks to me as though this truffle hunting lark could be a serious earner. If you knew what you were doing that is.
I shall stick to panning for gold in the Lincolnshire drains, there may be gold in them flat fields !!.
August 22, 2007 @ 11:10 pm
SC,
People (the French) are making big bucks from truffles, imported truffles and wild mushrooms are a luxury item. I employ French chefs who cannot believe how much we have to pay for them. They innocently tell me how they either pick them or pay pennies for a bag at the local farmers market.
I smile and nod my head on the outside whilst boil with rage on the inside!
A couple of years ago I was almost tempted to buy a tree which had been impregnated with truffle spores. The catch was that I would have to wait ten years to harvest any-almost wish I had now.
Miles
August 22, 2007 @ 11:22 pm